Daniel sent us this one — he's asking what to look for when buying a good quality drill, whether corded drills still make sense, what matters for cordless battery capacity, which manufacturers actually build durable tools, and what to look for in a bit and chuck set. It's basically the complete starter kit question. And honestly, the drill market right now is a mess of misleading specs and marketing nonsense. So where do we even start with this?
We start with the thing most buyers get wrong, which is that they shop for voltage like it's horsepower. They see twenty volts and think "more power" and it's just... not how any of this works. Voltage tells you almost nothing about actual performance. A well-engineered twelve-volt drill from a good manufacturer will outperform a cheap twenty-volt drill in real use every single time. What you actually want to look at is torque, measured in inch-pounds, and even that number is kind of a lie because there's no industry standard for how you measure it.
Of course there aren't standards. That would make comparison shopping too easy and we can't have that.
So you've got one company measuring stall torque, another measuring maximum torque under ideal lab conditions, another measuring something they call "unit watts out" which is a whole different thing. The practical advice is to ignore the numbers on the box and look at the ecosystem. When you buy a drill, you're not buying a drill. You're buying into a battery platform. That's the real decision.
Say more about that. The battery platform as the actual product.
Here's the thing. Once you buy a drill from, say, Milwaukee's M18 line, or Dewalt's twenty-volt max line, or Makita's LXT platform, you now own batteries and a charger for that system. And the batteries are the expensive part. A single five-amp-hour battery can cost sixty to a hundred dollars. So your next tool — an impact driver, a circular saw, a recip saw — you're going to buy the bare tool version without batteries because you already have them. That's the lock-in. And it's not malicious, it's just how the economics work. But it means you need to choose your first drill based on the entire ecosystem you're signing up for, not just the drill itself.
It's like choosing a religion based on the potluck dinners.
actually a perfect analogy. You're committing to the whole community, not just the one meal. Makita has an enormous range of tools on their LXT platform, including weird niche stuff like a cordless coffee maker. Milwaukee has incredible specialty tools for automotive and plumbing. Dewalt has a massive range and their Flexvolt system bridges the gap between handheld and heavy stationary tools. Ryobi has by far the widest range of oddball homeowner tools at the lowest price point, and they've famously never changed their battery form factor in over twenty-five years.
Wait, Ryobi kept the same battery shape for twenty-five years? That's genuinely impressive.
Since nineteen ninety-six. Same stem-style battery. You can take a brand new Ryobi lithium battery and snap it into a nineties-era blue Ryobi drill and it'll work. Nobody else does that. Everyone else has changed their battery platform at least once, leaving old tools orphaned. Dewalt went from the eighteen-volt stem to the twenty-volt max slide pack. Makita went from the old stick batteries to LXT. Milwaukee went from the V-eighteen to the M18. It's the one pro-consumer move in the entire industry.
The sloth of power tool companies. Slow, deliberate, refuses to change.
Now, Ryobi isn't a professional-grade brand. The build quality and durability aren't in the same league as Milwaukee or Makita. But for a homeowner who's going to use the drill maybe once a month, they're perfectly adequate and the ecosystem is massive — over two hundred and eighty tools on that platform. Leaf blowers, string trimmers, misting fans, soldering stations. It's absurd.
The platform question is the first filter. What's the second?
The second is brushless versus brushed motors. And this one actually matters in a way that voltage numbers don't. A brushed motor uses physical carbon brushes that press against a spinning commutator to deliver current. They wear down over time, create friction, generate heat, and are less efficient. A brushless motor uses electronic commutation — the motor controller precisely times pulses of current to the windings. No brushes, no physical contact, no friction, dramatically less heat, longer runtime, longer tool life. You get something like thirty to fifty percent more runtime from the same battery.
Always brushless, no question?
There's one edge case where a brushed drill might make sense, and that's if you're buying something you're going to use exactly three times and then lose in a move. You can get a brushed Ryobi drill for forty dollars. A brushless drill from a good manufacturer starts around a hundred dollars for the bare tool. If you only need to hang three pictures and assemble one IKEA bookshelf, the cheap brushed drill is fine. But if you think you might own this drill in five years, brushless pays for itself in battery life and longevity.
"Three times and then lose in a move" is a very specific use case.
I've helped enough people move to know it's a real one.
Alright, what about the corded question? Does it ever make sense to buy a drill with a cord in the current year?
A corded drill does two things that no cordless drill can match. First, sustained high-torque work. If you're mixing a five-gallon bucket of thinset or drilling a series of half-inch holes through steel plate, a cordless drill will overheat and the battery will drain in minutes. A corded drill will run until the job is done. Second, indefinite shelf life. You buy a corded drill, put it in a drawer, come back ten years later, and it works exactly the same as the day you bought it. No battery degradation, no discontinued platform, no proprietary charger that went missing. It's the tool equivalent of a cast iron pan.
The battery degradation point is interesting. How fast do these lithium batteries actually degrade?
Faster than most people realize. A typical lithium-ion tool battery is rated for about five hundred to a thousand charge cycles before it drops to roughly seventy percent capacity. But that's under ideal conditions. If you leave it fully charged in a hot garage, degradation accelerates dramatically. If you run it completely dead and then leave it sitting, that can damage the cells. The practical reality is that a battery used regularly in less-than-ideal conditions might show meaningful degradation in two to three years. And replacement batteries are expensive enough that sometimes it's cheaper to buy a whole new drill kit on sale than to buy two bare batteries.
Which is the printer ink model applied to power tools.
And it's environmentally terrible. Millions of perfectly functional drills get thrown away because the batteries died and the replacement cost doesn't make sense. There's a growing third-party battery refurbishment market — companies that will open up your dead battery pack and replace the individual eighteen sixty-five or twenty-one seven hundred cells inside — but most consumers don't know about it.
Alright, so for someone buying their first serious drill, cordless is the default but corded has its place. How do you think about battery capacity within the cordless world?
This is where amp-hours come in. A two-amp-hour battery is physically smaller and lighter. A five-amp-hour battery is larger and heavier but stores two and a half times the energy. Most kits come with two-amp-hour or one-point-five-amp-hour batteries because they're cheaper to include and they make the drill feel lighter in your hand at the store.
The test-drive bait.
The test-drive bait. And for most drilling tasks, a two-amp-hour battery is actually fine. You're drilling quarter-inch holes in wood or drywall, it'll last through dozens of holes. But the moment you start doing anything that draws sustained power — driving three-inch deck screws, using a hole saw, mixing paint — that small battery drains fast and the drill's performance drops off as the voltage sags. A five-amp-hour battery doesn't just last longer, it delivers more consistent power throughout the discharge curve because there's less voltage sag under load. The drill literally performs better with a bigger battery.
The advice is buy the kit with the bigger batteries even though it's heavier and more expensive?
Buy the kit with at least one five-amp-hour battery, or buy the bare tool and a five-amp-hour battery separately. But here's a specific shopping tip: look for the "kitted with five-amp-hour" deals around Father's Day and Black Friday. Manufacturers use the small batteries as loss leaders to hit a price point, but the holiday bundles often include the bigger batteries at a much better value. And you want at least two batteries total, because there's nothing more frustrating than having your one battery die mid-project and having to wait forty-five minutes for it to charge.
The mid-project rage charge. I know it well.
You're standing there, holding a partially-driven screw, staring at a blinking charger light, questioning every life choice that led to this moment.
Alright, let's talk manufacturers. Who's actually making durable drills, and who's coasting on reputation?
The top tier for durability is pretty well established. Milwaukee, specifically their Fuel line, is the benchmark for professional-grade durability. These are tools designed for daily jobsite use, dropped off ladders, covered in drywall dust, run hard. They're expensive but they survive abuse that would kill a lesser drill. Makita is right there with them, and Makita has a reputation for better ergonomics and more refinement — their tools feel better balanced, the triggers are smoother, the chucks run truer. Dewalt is the third of the big three pro brands, and their build quality is excellent, though their range is slightly less specialized than Milwaukee's.
Below that tier?
Bosch Professional — the blue Bosch, not the green DIY Bosch — makes excellent drills. They're huge in Europe, less dominant in the US market, but the engineering is top-notch. Ridgid is an interesting case — sold primarily at Home Depot, made by TTI, the same company that makes Milwaukee and Ryobi. The build quality is very good, not quite Milwaukee Fuel level, but the real selling point is the lifetime service agreement that includes batteries. If you register the tool properly, they'll replace worn-out batteries for free. That changes the long-term cost equation dramatically.
Wait, free battery replacement for life? How is that sustainable as a business model?
Because most people don't register properly. You have to do it within ninety days of purchase, you need the receipt, you need to fill out the paperwork. The percentage of buyers who actually complete the registration is reportedly very low. It's the mail-in rebate model applied to power tools. But if you're the kind of person who actually fills out warranty cards, Ridgid becomes the best value proposition in the entire market. A drill that comes with free batteries forever is essentially a corded drill that happens to be cordless.
That's a great way to frame it. What about the brands to avoid?
I'll name names carefully here. The bottom tier is pretty recognizable. Anything sold primarily at Harbor Freight under their house brands — Warrior, Chicago Electric, Drill Master — these are disposable tools. They'll work for light tasks but the chucks have runout, the triggers feel vague, the batteries degrade quickly, and replacement parts don't exist. Black and Decker has fallen far from what they once were. Their current consumer-grade drills are not in the same universe as their Dewalt corporate sibling. And there's a whole category of Amazon alphabet-soup brands — names like Avid Power and Galax Pro — that are white-label tools from the same Chinese factories with different stickers. They're not necessarily dangerous, but they're not durable, and good luck getting support or replacement batteries in three years.
The alphabet-soup brand phenomenon is fascinating. It's like the tool equivalent of those Amazon clothing brands that exist for six months and then vanish.
It's exactly that. The business model is to identify a product category with high search volume, source the cheapest possible version from Alibaba, slap a brand name on it, run aggressive Amazon ads for six months, and then when the reviews catch up and the return rate spikes, they shut down the listing and launch a new brand name. The tool is almost a byproduct. The real product is the Amazon listing.
The tool as a byproduct of the SEO strategy. That's bleak.
It is bleak. And it's why I always tell people: if you've never heard of the brand and it's not sold in any physical store, don't buy it. The minimum bar for a power tool should be "does this company have a phone number I can call when something breaks.
That's a surprisingly good heuristic for a lot of purchases. Alright, let's get to the second half of the question — bits and chucks. What should someone look for in a starting set?
This is where I see people make the most expensive mistakes, because they'll spend two hundred dollars on a drill and then buy a twenty-dollar bit set and wonder why their holes are ragged and their screws keep stripping. The bit is the part that actually touches the workpiece. The drill is just the motor. A good bit set on a mediocre drill will outperform a bad bit set on a great drill.
The bit is the part that actually touches the workpiece. That's going to stick with me.
Good, because it's the single most important sentence in this entire episode. Now, for a starter set, you want three categories of bits. First, twist drill bits for drilling holes in wood, metal, and plastic. Look for high-speed steel at minimum, or cobalt steel if you're drilling metal regularly. The cheap bits are often just carbon steel and they dull almost immediately. Second, a set of driver bits for screws — Phillips, flathead, Torx, square drive, and hex. The material matters enormously here. Look for S2 tool steel, which is a specific alloy that's shock-resistant and holds its shape under the impact of an impact driver. Cheap driver bits are made of chromium-vanadium steel and they'll cam out and strip screw heads within the first few uses.
When the bit slips out of the screw head under torque and chews up the metal. It's that horrible grinding sound followed by a ruined screw that you now have to extract with pliers. S2 steel bits resist cam-out much better because they're harder and maintain their precise geometry longer. The third category is spade bits or auger bits for drilling larger holes in wood. And you'll also want a set of nut drivers if you do any automotive or appliance work.
What's a good actual set to buy? Give me a name.
For twist drill bits, the Milwaukee Shockwave or Dewalt black oxide sets are solid mid-tier options. If you want the best, the Norseman or Drill America sets made in the USA from M42 cobalt steel are what machine shops use. They're expensive but they'll last a hobbyist a lifetime. For driver bits, Wiha and Wera are the gold standard — German engineering, precisely machined tips, excellent fit. Makita's Impact Gold bits are also excellent and more readily available in US home centers. For a comprehensive starter set, I'd recommend something like the Makita Impact Gold sixty-piece set or the Dewalt FlexTorq set. Both give you a good range of sizes and types in a decent case.
You mentioned chuck runout earlier.
The chuck is the clamping mechanism that holds the bit. A bad chuck will have runout — the bit wobbles slightly as it spins — and that wobble translates directly into oversized, ragged holes and broken small bits. The standard for good chucks is a company called Röhm in Germany, but they're mostly found on higher-end drills. The key spec to look for is a metal chuck, not plastic. All-metal construction, preferably with carbide jaws for grip. The size matters too — a half-inch chuck accepts bits up to half an inch in shank diameter, which covers virtually everything a homeowner needs.
When you're buying the drill, look at the chuck. If it's plastic, walk away.
It's the tell. A manufacturer that puts a plastic chuck on a drill has made decisions about every other component that you can't see. If they cheaped out on the part you can see and touch, imagine what they did with the gears and bearings inside.
The chuck as a synecdoche for the entire tool.
The quality of the chuck tells you everything about the engineering philosophy behind the product.
Alright, let's zoom out for a second. You've laid out the framework — pick the ecosystem first, brushless almost always, at least one big battery, don't cheap out on bits, the chuck is the canary in the coal mine. What's the actual shopping recommendation? Someone walks into Home Depot or goes online, what are the three drills they should be comparing?
For a homeowner who wants quality without going full professional, the Dewalt DCD eight hundred or the Milwaukee M18 Fuel compact drill, model two nine zero four, are the sweet spot. Both are brushless, both have all-metal chucks, both are part of enormous battery ecosystems, both will last a decade or more under normal use. The Dewalt is typically slightly cheaper, the Milwaukee slightly more refined. You can't go wrong with either. If budget is tighter, the Ryobi HP line — their brushless models — are good tools at about sixty percent of the price of the pro brands. The HP compact brushless drill is a hundred dollars as a bare tool and it'll do ninety-five percent of what a homeowner needs.
If someone wants the corded recommendation?
The Dewalt DWD one one two is the standard answer. Eight amps, half-inch chuck, all-metal construction, about eighty dollars, and it'll outlive you. There's also the Milwaukee zero two three four Magnum, which has a slightly better cord strain relief and a more comfortable grip. Both are basically indestructible. If you're drilling into masonry regularly, you want a hammer drill function, and the corded hammer drills from Bosch are the gold standard — the Bulldog line has been the go-to for decades.
You mentioned hammer drills. Let's clarify that for a second, because I think people confuse hammer drills and impact drivers constantly.
Oh, this drives me crazy. They're completely different mechanisms for completely different purposes. A hammer drill has a percussion mechanism that pounds the bit forward into the material as it spins. It's for drilling into concrete, brick, and masonry. The hammering action is axial — in line with the bit. An impact driver has a rotational hammer mechanism. It delivers concussive rotational blows around the axis of rotation. It's for driving screws and bolts, not for drilling holes. If you try to drill concrete with an impact driver, you'll get nowhere and ruin your bit. If you try to drive a three-inch lag screw with a hammer drill, you'll strip the screw head and probably hurt your wrist.
The impact driver is the one that seems to have become ubiquitous in the last decade. Every contractor seems to carry one now.
The impact driver has largely replaced the drill as the primary screw-driving tool on jobsites, and for good reason. It drives screws faster, with more control, and without the kickback that can twist a drill out of your hands when a bit binds. If you're building a deck or framing a wall, you want an impact driver. But you still need a drill for drilling holes. Which is why most manufacturers sell combo kits with both tools, two batteries, and a charger for around two hundred to three hundred dollars. That's actually the best value entry point for someone starting from scratch.
The combo kit is the real recommendation for a new buyer.
Drill plus impact driver, two batteries, charger, bag. That's the starter pack for the modern battery platform. You get the drill for holes, the impact driver for screws, and you're set for basically any household project. The Dewalt DCK two eight seven or the Milwaukee two nine nine seven combo kits are the ones I'd point people toward. Both are brushless, both come with two-amp-hour batteries though you might want to add a five-amp-hour later, and both will handle anything short of professional daily use.
Let me ask a question I haven't seen addressed anywhere. What about the ergonomics? You mentioned Makita being better balanced. How much does that actually matter?
More than most people realize until they've used a poorly balanced drill for an hour. A drill that's front-heavy — heavy chuck and gearbox, light battery — wants to tip forward, and you're constantly fighting it. A drill with the weight centered over the grip feels lighter than it actually is because you're not applying constant corrective force. Makita is famous for this. Their drills just feel right in the hand. The grip diameter matters too. People with smaller hands often find Dewalt's grips too thick. Milwaukee's grips are slightly slimmer. The only way to know is to pick them up. Go to a store and hold them. It's like buying shoes — the specs don't tell you if they fit.
The try-before-you-buy advice that applies to literally everything and that nobody follows because we all shop online now.
And it's a genuine problem with tools. But if you're going to own this thing for ten years, it's worth a trip to Home Depot or Lowe's just to pick up the display models. Even if you ultimately buy online for a better price, at least you'll know which grip fits you.
What about the specialty stuff? Right angle drills, installation drivers, the weird form factors?
Those are second tools, not first tools. A right angle drill is for getting into tight spaces where a standard drill won't fit — between studs, inside cabinets. An installation driver is a compact tool with interchangeable heads for different fastener types. They're incredibly useful if you're doing a lot of cabinetry or furniture assembly, but they're not a replacement for a standard drill. The one specialty tool I'd actually recommend as a possible first purchase instead of a standard drill is the Milwaukee M12 Fuel installation driver. It's twelve volts, so it's smaller and lighter, and the interchangeable heads make it absurdly versatile. But it's limited in power for heavy drilling, and you're committing to the M12 platform which is separate from the M18 platform.
Wait, M12 and M18 are different platforms? Same batteries don't work?
Different batteries entirely. M12 is the compact twelve-volt line, M18 is the full-size eighteen-volt line. They're not cross-compatible. Milwaukee does make some chargers that accept both, but the batteries themselves are different form factors. It's one of the annoyances of the ecosystem model. You might end up on two platforms from the same manufacturer.
That seems like a design choice that exists primarily to sell more batteries.
I mean, yes. But in fairness, a twelve-volt battery physically can't deliver the sustained power that an eighteen-volt tool needs, and an eighteen-volt battery is too large and heavy for a compact twelve-volt tool. There are legitimate engineering reasons for the separation. But it does mean you have to be strategic about which platform you start with.
Alright, let's circle back to something you mentioned earlier about battery care. If someone's spending serious money on these batteries, how do they maximize the lifespan?
A few rules. One, don't store batteries fully charged in high heat. Heat is the enemy of lithium-ion chemistry. If your garage hits a hundred degrees in summer, bring the batteries inside. Two, don't run them completely dead. Lithium-ion batteries don't have memory effect like old nickel-cadmium batteries, so partial discharges are actually better for them. Three, if you're not going to use a battery for months, store it at about forty to sixty percent charge. Most chargers don't have a storage charge mode, so you have to manage this yourself. Four, use the batteries regularly. A battery that sits unused for years will degrade from chemical aging even if it's never cycled.
The battery that dies of loneliness.
And five, if a battery gets wet, let it dry completely before charging. Water inside the pack can cause a short circuit when you connect it to the charger.
What about third-party batteries? There's a huge market for knockoff Dewalt and Milwaukee batteries on Amazon for a third of the price.
Just don't. The cells inside those batteries are often salvaged from old laptop packs or are factory rejects that didn't meet quality standards. The battery management circuitry — the electronics that prevent overcharging, overheating, and over-discharging — is usually minimal or absent. Best case, the battery performs poorly and dies quickly. Worst case, it catches fire while charging. There are documented cases of knockoff tool batteries causing house fires. The savings aren't worth it. Buy the manufacturer's batteries, or buy from a reputable third party that explicitly uses name-brand cells from Samsung, LG, or Panasonic and has proper BMS circuitry.
The fire risk is real, not theoretical?
Lithium-ion battery fires are extremely difficult to extinguish because the cells contain their own oxidizer. There was a case a few years ago where a contractor's van burned to the ground because of a knockoff battery that went into thermal runaway while charging overnight. The official batteries have multiple layers of protection — cell-level fuses, temperature sensors, charge controllers that communicate with the charger. The knockoffs have none of that.
The battery is a safety component, not just a commodity power source.
And this is something the tool companies don't communicate well. They market batteries based on runtime and power, but the real engineering is in the safety and longevity systems. A modern tool battery is a sophisticated piece of electronics, not just a box of cells.
Alright, let's talk about one more thing before we start wrapping up. The used market. Is buying used drills a good idea?
Used corded drills are a fantastic value. Like I said, they basically don't degrade. You can find old Milwaukee Magnum drills from the nineties at garage sales for ten dollars that still work perfectly. Used cordless drills are trickier because the battery is usually the thing that's worn out, and if the battery platform has been discontinued, replacement batteries might not exist. If you find a used brushless drill on a current platform — say, a used Dewalt twenty-volt max drill — and it comes with functional batteries, that can be a good deal. But test the batteries. Run the drill hard for a few minutes and see if it holds power. If the seller says "just needs a new battery," factor in that a new battery costs as much as the used drill.
The battery as the consumable that determines the value of the entire tool.
Which is why the Ridgid lifetime battery replacement is such a compelling offer, and why Ryobi's commitment to backward compatibility matters so much. In a world where batteries are consumables that cost nearly as much as the tools they power, anything that reduces that long-term cost is worth paying attention to.
Alright, I think we've covered the landscape pretty thoroughly. Let me try to summarize the decision framework, and you tell me if I'm missing anything. Step one: decide corded or cordless. If you're doing sustained heavy work or want a tool that'll sit in a drawer for years and always work, go corded and buy the Dewalt or Milwaukee and never think about it again. If you want convenience and portability, go cordless. Step two: pick your ecosystem based on what other tools you might want later. Milwaukee for automotive and specialty, Makita for refinement and ergonomics, Dewalt for broad availability and value, Ryobi for budget-conscious homeowners, Ridgid if you'll actually register the warranty. Step three: go brushless unless you're buying a disposable tool. Step four: get at least one five-amp-hour battery. Step five: buy good bits. The drill is just the motor. Step six: pick it up before you buy it. If it doesn't feel right in your hand, try a different brand.
That's the framework. The only thing I'd add is step seven: buy the combo kit if you don't already have an impact driver. The two-tool kit is the best value in the entire power tool market and you'll use the impact driver more than you think.
What's the actual out-the-door cost for someone following this advice? Not the bargain basement version, but the buy-it-once quality version?
For a brushless drill and impact driver combo kit from Dewalt or Milwaukee with two batteries and a charger, you're looking at about two hundred to two hundred fifty dollars. Add a five-amp-hour battery for another sixty to eighty dollars if you want the extended runtime. A good sixty-piece bit set is thirty to fifty dollars. So all in, around three hundred dollars for a setup that will handle virtually any household project for the next decade plus.
Three hundred dollars for a decade of drilling. That's thirty dollars a year. The economics of buying quality are hard to argue with.
They really are. The cheap drill that dies in two years and leaves you with orphaned batteries costs more in the long run every single time. And that's before we even talk about the frustration cost of a tool that doesn't work when you need it.
The frustration cost is probably the biggest line item, honestly. Nothing ruins a Saturday project faster than a drill that can't finish the job.
The mid-project rage charge we talked about. Avoid that and the whole thing pays for itself in marital harmony alone.
There it is. The true value proposition of a good drill: it might save your marriage.
I'm not saying a Milwaukee Fuel drill is cheaper than couples therapy, but I'm not not saying that either.
Now: Hilbert's daily fun fact.
Hilbert: In the nineteen twenties, the Namibian navy — a landlocked nation's ceremonial maritime force — maintained a tradition of saluting desert mirages as if they were passing vessels, a protocol originally devised to keep watch crews alert during monotonous coastal patrols that continued long after the patrols themselves ceased.
...right.
A navy for a landlocked country saluting mirages. That's not a fun fact, that's an allegory for something. I'm just not sure what.
Alright, here's what I keep thinking about after this conversation. We spent almost half an hour talking about drills, and the throughline is that the entire market is designed to obscure the actual cost of ownership. The misleading specs, the battery lock-in, the disposable brands, the knockoff batteries that might burn your house down. Buying a good drill requires navigating a minefield of deliberate confusion. And the people who get burned are the ones who can least afford it — the new homeowner, the first-time DIYer, the person who just wants to hang a shelf. There's something broken about that.
The information asymmetry is real. The tool companies know exactly what they're doing with the voltage marketing and the cheap batteries in the starter kits. They're not lying, technically, but they're not helping either. Which is why conversations like this actually matter. Not because drills are the most important thing in the world, but because helping people make one good purchase that lasts a decade is useful.
It's the kind of knowledge that used to be passed down — your dad or your neighbor or the guy at the hardware store would tell you what to buy. Those channels are thinning out. Nobody knows the guy at the hardware store anymore.
We're the guy at the hardware store now. That's either inspiring or deeply concerning, I'm not sure which.
Thanks to our producer Hilbert Flumingtop for making this show happen. This has been My Weird Prompts. Find us at myweirdprompts dot com or wherever you get your podcasts. If you found this useful, leave us a review — it helps other people discover the show. Until next time.
Don't buy the knockoff batteries.
That's the real sign-off.
